Fabulous Fontina …

Hello Cheese Enthusiast!

While shopping at Nugget Market (home to one of my favorite cheese counters), I got into a discussion with their specialty cheese manager, Reed Pattison. Reed and I have known each other since 2014 when we were both studying for the American Cheese Society’s Certified Cheese Professional® Exam. I am happy to say that both he and I passed the exam and became part of an alumni that only tops 1,000 people across the U.S. 

Reed and I were discussing what new cheeses could be found at his counter, when he pointed out a flavored Fontina from Yellow Door Creamery. Realizing that they also carried several other Fontina cheese, I knew I had my post for the week…Fabulous Fontina.

Fontina Val d'Aosta PDO – Out of the three Fontina cheeses that I picked up, it is Fontina Val d'Aosta PDO that has the birthright to the name of this cheese. In historical documents from the Valle d’Aosta region, the name “fontina” recurs frequently. Since the mid-1200s there is evidence of the De Funtina family and 100 years later we can read about the De Fontines family₁. Valle d'Aosta, is the smallest Italian region and also the least populated and completely mountainous (as it borders Switzerland). Fontina Val d'Aosta PDO is made from the whole, raw milk of the Valdostana breed (red spotted, black spotted, or brown) of cows, and their milk can only be collected in

the Valle d'Aosta region. So carefully regulated by the Consorzio Produttori e Tutela dalla DOP Fontina, that even the lactic acid bacteria (enzymes) used to make this cheese are indigenous to the region and are regulated and dispensed freely by the consortium. Such an amazing unique and alpine flavor! Made using animal rennet, this cheese is aged at least 90 days. Be sure to look for the consortium logo and the Fontina Val d’Aosta DOP name when purchasing this cheese, as there are many imitations. Check out the beautiful film on its production here. 

Danish Fontina/Fontal – This cheese has been a favorite of mine since I tried it at my first cheese shop. With its bright red wax, one might easily mistake it for one of the many varieties of Gouda cheese produced by Denmark’s neighbor in Holland. Trust me when I say that the red wax is about the only thing that it has in common with Gouda. 

Semi-Soft in texture, this “yellow cheese” (a common way the Danish distinguish between cheese, example: white cheese, yellow cheese) has cream added, so it’s much higher in moisture than its Italian cousin. This cheese has wonderful melting properties and a “tangy” flavor thanks to the added Lipase (Lipases are natural enzymes used to impart distinct aromas and flavors to certain cheeses through the breakdown of milkfat). Made from pasteurized cow’s milk and microbial rennet, it is only aged about 60 days. This cheese is a favorite whether it be on sandwiches, in mac & cheese, or in Baked Fontina.

The third Fontina that I picked up I have not seen in a long time, but it is a good one! 

Harissa Fontina – Produced by Yellow Door Creamery. This domestically produced cheese from Wisconsin has a higher moisture content like the Danish Fontina, then it is hand rubbed with Harissa Spices. Not familiar with Harissa?...Harissais a Tunisian chili pepper paste, the main ingredients of which are roasted red peppers (Baklouti peppers or serrano peppers), spices and herbs such as garlic paste, caraway seeds, coriander seeds, cumin and olive oil to carry the oil-soluble flavors. The fact that Tunisia is right across the Mediterranean Sea from Italy was a nice pairing. I felt this cheese had a wonderful, unique flavor and apparently so did the cheese community, as it won two major awards – 1st place from the American Cheese Society (2016) and Gold Medal from the International Cheese Awards (2016). This cheese is made with pasteurized cow’s milk and is aged 60 days.

Getting back to my conversation with Reed…He encouraged me to try these cheeses both cold, and heated. So as soon as I got home I broke out my Raclette grill to try them heated. Wow!...So different!...So many different applications!

Fontina – These three cheeses may have a name in common, but their flavors could not be more different. 

Next time you are in talking with your cheesemonger, ask for their recommendations and be sure to ask for a sample…or better yet, stop by and see Reed, he always has a good cheese story to share!

Until next week…

Trevor