Au Lait Cru…
/
Photo courtesy of Sequatchie Cove Creamery
That term may not be common here in the United States, but trust me…it’s coming our way and we will be celebrating it when it does finally become part of our vocabulary…So what does ‘Au Lait Cru’ mean?....It is French for a product made with Raw Milk. That is to say that the milk temperature never rises above 40º C (104º F), which is about the same as an animal’s body temperature (101.5 – 103.5ºF). This is the way that all cheeses were made until the invention of milk pasteurization in the 1880’s. Milk pasteurization of fluid milk started happening in the 1920’s here in the States and by the mid-1940’s the rule was extended to cheese, unless it had been aged at least 60 days to help kill any potentially harmful bacteria.
Most the 1950’s through the 1970’s Americans seemed to marvel at food sciences that would make food last longer, become more shelf stable, and ultimately become more industrialized. Don’t get me wrong…some of this was very good and helpful, but it also had a down side as several generations lost touch with food production…how it should be made, and most importantly how it should taste.
I was raised in California and I watched our local wine community grow and develop from an industrialized industry to a smaller batch production, hand produced, and higher quality to eventually become some of the most highly prized wines in the world. The wine industry was one of the first, then farmers, ranchers, bakers, brewers, distillers, and yes, cheesemakers, took notice of this artisan movement and started what I like to refer to as “The Second Arts & Crafts Movement” ~ These fine people saw the art in these foods and they looked back into history to see how these products were originally created, and the public responded…positively and craved more!!
In this week’s post I originally wanted to write and to tell you about several organizations that work to with the CDC and the FDA to raise awareness, and to re-examine the science regarding raw milk cheeses. Oldways is one of those companies…They help spread the word (and benefits) of raw milk by promoting Raw Milk Cheese Day which is taking place this October 17th across the country. Another such event that takes place in May is American Cheese Month, promoted by the American Cheese Society…No, I am not talking about the squares of orange American cheese individually wrapped in plastic, I am talking about good ol’ fashioned American made cheeses produced here in the U.S. of A. These small producers of artisan (or old world style) cheeses help keep cheesemaking traditions alive that have been going on for hundreds and, in some cases, thousands of years.
When looking over the many producers that make raw milk cheeses, one stood out to me above many of the others ~ Sequatchie Cove Creamery from Sequatchie, Tennessee.
I was familiar with one of their cheeses that I had found earlier in the year, Shakerag Blue, but was not too familiar with their others…Ohhh, and when I found their website and the list of cheeses that they produce, it was like finding a little gold mine in the Cumberland mountains of Tennessee!….So many beautiful cheeses, many made from raw milk. Most had a heavy European influence, but all had a Southern flair.
Let me share a few of their cheeses that caught my eye:
Dancing Fern – This beautiful cheese was inspired by the famous raw milk Reblochon cheeses of the Savoie (the mountainous region between France and Switzerland). Dancing Fern is a raw milk cheese and has a soft and supple texture and barn-yardy aroma, along with notes of cultured butter, shiitake mushroom, and walnuts. This cheese is named for the native ferns that sway and nod at the breezy mouth of a cave in Coppinger Cove where the creamery is located. This cheese is something unique and special in the artisan cheese world. No wonder it has been a six time award winner at the American Cheese Society awards. Simply amazing!
When I saw the image of this next cheese, I nearly fell off my chair…For many people in the cheese industry cried when the FDA stopped the importation of raw milk Morbier cheese from France a few years back…While the ban is lifted (for the pasteurized version), it is nearly impossible to find at your local cheese shop. Their Coppinger pays a beautiful homage to French Morbier, with all of the comforts of home. Coppinger is a raw milk, semi-soft washed rind cheese with a striking layer of decorative vegetable ash in its center. The velvety elastic paste is savory and buttery with notes of fresh grass, citrus, and cured meats, making it ideal for the cheese plate or melted into any dish.
I enjoyed this cheese with a malty ale, French bread, bacon jam, and charcuterie.
One last cheese to try…This is one of their newest inventions called Walden. This 7 oz. wheel may be made with pasteurized milk, but it has all of the flavor and characteristics of a raw milk cheese. It is the perfect size for retailers, as well as your cheeseboard. It has a soft doughy texture with an aroma of buttered mushrooms.
When opening these cheeses, one of the things I noticed first is their color. These beautiful cheeses have a beautiful golden tone to them and are made from the milk of grass fed cows.
I so appreciate the cheesemaking style that Nathan and Padgett Arnold (and their dedicated team) create every day. Thank you for the Sequatchie Cove samples that you sent me to help better illustrate the importance and care that goes in to making raw milk cheeses. Their craftsmanship did not happen by accident…they worked tirelessly to get their recipes right and even studied with European cheesemakers to perfect their craft.
So now you know a little bit more about raw milk and raw milk cheeses. I hope that you will try and find some of these cheeses made by Sequatchie Cove Creamery. If you don’t see them, just ask your local cheesemonger.
Still curious if you have tried a raw milk cheese? Here are some common varieties:
Parmigiano-Reggiano from Italy
Le Gruyère AOP from Switzerland
Comté AOP from France
Roquefort AOP from France
So mark your calendar for a raw milk cheese celebration will take place around the world on October 17, 2020!
#rawcheeseday
Until next week,
Trevor
